So from Bulawayo, we headed to Matopos National Park. The scenery here is very different from anything else we have previously seen - lots of long grass, thick bush, big boulders and crazy rock formations. Apparently there are more leopard here per square kilometre than anywhere else in Africa but they are such elusive creatures that of course we didn't see any. The guide at camp said he had seen just four in the past six months. The main purpose of our visit here was to track rhinos, although we also did some walking to view some rock paintings and visit a local village. It was great fun climbing up rocks and enjoying the stunning views.
So on to the rhinos. We spent an afternoon driving round the park finding tracks and droppings so that we could then pick up a trail and follow the rhino on foot. Our guide was brilliant and so informative. Sadly we didn't ever manage to track down a rhino but then there are only 11 left in the park. The poaching of these creatures is rife and numbers are declining so quickly that if it continues then there simply will be no rhino (either black or white) left in Africa in five years time. We saw two skeletons - one had died of natural causes but the other had been shot by poachers. You could clearly see the bullet hole through the brain and the face had been hacked off so that the poachers could quickly escape with the horn.
Five years ago, there were 86 rhino in this park but in January this year alone, 11 rhino were shot and killed by poachers. There are 120 people patrolling the park who are authorised to shoot and kill anyone suspected of poaching. On average, they catch / kill around 20-25 poachers per month, but still this does not deter them. The sole reason for killing rhino is for its horn and a poacher will get about $1000 for a horn. This doesn't seem like a great deal of money considering you are risking your life but then the average monthly income in Zimbabwe is just $30 and unemployment is around 95%. These are desperate people. The actual sellers of the horn will make up to half a million US dollars for a few kilos. Whilst the sale of rhino horn is illegal, there is a huge black market because Chinese and Asian people believe that rhino horn is an aphrodisiac..
In an attempt to deter poachers, a few years back they de-horned all the rhino in the park. However, even this failed because a small stump of horn is left and it will ultimately grow back. The poachers were still prepared to kill even for a very small amount of horn.
Now we are in Antelope Park where the TV documentary "Lion Country" was filmed. Here for a couple of days so I'll update on that tomorrow assuming internet is still working. Off horse riding this afternoon and hoping not to be chased by lions!
Western Sahara 2016
Sunday, 14 August 2011
Thursday, 11 August 2011
Botswana to Zimbabwe
Overlanding in the south of Africa is so much easier than the north. Short driving days, campsites with swimming pools and decent bathrooms. Toilet facilities that have toilet paper and soap is luxury indeed, especially when I think back to some of the filthy squat toilets earlier in the trip. We've even stayed in some places that don't feel the need to padlock the toilet paper - most overland campsites do this as they know overlanders will just take it if it's not locked down!
Also exciting news is that some camps recently have offered a proper laundry service - washing machines and clothes that are returned to you smelling of fabric softener. The clean clothes thing never lasts long though as we currently have a gas "crisis" and have to cook all our meals over a fire so our clothes constantly smell of smoke. I use the word "crisis" very loosely. We have lots of crisis on the truck (almost daily) - it is amusing what some people regard as a crisis and it has become something of a joke among those of us who are more laid back. In actual fact, we did eventually find some gas before leaving Botswana yesterday after spending quite a bit of time driving around Francistown - most places had sold out but we managed to get the last gas canister at about the fifth attempt.
So yesterday, we left Botswana and crossed the border into Zimbabwe. We are currently in Bulawayo, the second largest city in Zimbabwe. Last night we stayed in a HOTEL!! I think it is about a month since I slept in a bed (Zanzibar was the last time) and the past week has not been very comfortable given that my thermarest (sleeping mat for those not in the know) has a leak and deflates during the night. So a double bed with a duvet and four pillows was heaven. No point getting too used to it though as it's back to camping tonight. We leave Bulawayo after lunch and head to a national park for a couple of nights where we get to go rhino tracking. Hopefully my thermarest is now fixed as I've located four holes and patched them up (thanks Paul for your help).
Only just over a month of the trip left now and the last few countries have flown past - I cannot believe we are in Zimbabwe already with only Mozambique, Swaziland and South Africa to go. I really don't want it to end!
Also exciting news is that some camps recently have offered a proper laundry service - washing machines and clothes that are returned to you smelling of fabric softener. The clean clothes thing never lasts long though as we currently have a gas "crisis" and have to cook all our meals over a fire so our clothes constantly smell of smoke. I use the word "crisis" very loosely. We have lots of crisis on the truck (almost daily) - it is amusing what some people regard as a crisis and it has become something of a joke among those of us who are more laid back. In actual fact, we did eventually find some gas before leaving Botswana yesterday after spending quite a bit of time driving around Francistown - most places had sold out but we managed to get the last gas canister at about the fifth attempt.
So yesterday, we left Botswana and crossed the border into Zimbabwe. We are currently in Bulawayo, the second largest city in Zimbabwe. Last night we stayed in a HOTEL!! I think it is about a month since I slept in a bed (Zanzibar was the last time) and the past week has not been very comfortable given that my thermarest (sleeping mat for those not in the know) has a leak and deflates during the night. So a double bed with a duvet and four pillows was heaven. No point getting too used to it though as it's back to camping tonight. We leave Bulawayo after lunch and head to a national park for a couple of nights where we get to go rhino tracking. Hopefully my thermarest is now fixed as I've located four holes and patched them up (thanks Paul for your help).
Only just over a month of the trip left now and the last few countries have flown past - I cannot believe we are in Zimbabwe already with only Mozambique, Swaziland and South Africa to go. I really don't want it to end!
Monday, 8 August 2011
Botswana
From Zambia, we took a 5 minute ferry to cross the border into Botswana. As Botswana's main industry is cattle, they are fearful of foot and mouth disease so we had to put our shoes and the truck through disinfectant dips. We are also subject to random roadside checks and have to hide any meat or fresh produce whenever we see a check point coming up. So far we've only had a few pieces of fruit confiscated as they don't check the truck that thoroughly.
Our first two nights in Botswana were spent in Chobe National Park where we took a river boat wildlife cruise. We saw some massive crocodiles, hippos, giraffes, water buffalo and lots of different birds (although I can't get too excited about birdwatching!). The best thing was seeing a herd of around 40 elephants crossing the river at sunset. The larger elephants can wade across, but the smaller ones have to swim. All you can see is their trunks poking up out of the water so they look really funny. It was quite sad because one elephant got left behind and was quite distraught running up and down the shore calling to his friends. When some of the others realised, they turned back to go and get him so all was okay in the end.
From Chobe, we headed to Elephant Sands Camp and spent a leisurely afternoon relaxing by the pool. The tan is coming on nicely. The camp has a large watering hole which normally animals come to visit after dark, but we didn't see any elephants just some antelopes.
Next stop was Maun where we have been based for three nights. Maun is the gateway to the Okavango Delta, the largest inland waterway in the world. The water doesn't ever reach the ocean as it all just disappears into the land. We left the truck at camp and took mokoros (traditional dug out canoes) and camped on an island. It is so relaxing to lie back on a mokoro as you glide quietly through the water and reeds. We did some guided walks on the island and saw lots of elephant poo and animal tracks. No animals though but may be that is just as well as it would be a little bit scary to turn a corner and come face to face with an elephant! After dinner round the camp fire, the polers (people who pole the mokoros) and guides did some singing and dancing. The frog dance finale was a particular hit (Bruce even felt compelled to join in).. and yes, a frog dance is basically leaping around like frogs making frog noises - it was hilarious.
To finish up our time in Maun, we then took a 45 minute flight over the Okavanga Delta in tiny seven seater planes. I've never been in such a small plane before so it was exciting to do that, although I felt pretty sick after a while particularly when Jon asked the pilot to do some "fun" flying. Good to see Botswana from the air though and all the animals, including a herd of eight giraffes and lots of buffalo. Botswana is scarcely populated in comparison to many of the other countries we have visited, with a very dry arid landscape (although we are here in dry season so I guess it would be greener at other times of the year).
We now have a couple more nights in Botswana and then it's on to Zimbabwe.
Our first two nights in Botswana were spent in Chobe National Park where we took a river boat wildlife cruise. We saw some massive crocodiles, hippos, giraffes, water buffalo and lots of different birds (although I can't get too excited about birdwatching!). The best thing was seeing a herd of around 40 elephants crossing the river at sunset. The larger elephants can wade across, but the smaller ones have to swim. All you can see is their trunks poking up out of the water so they look really funny. It was quite sad because one elephant got left behind and was quite distraught running up and down the shore calling to his friends. When some of the others realised, they turned back to go and get him so all was okay in the end.
From Chobe, we headed to Elephant Sands Camp and spent a leisurely afternoon relaxing by the pool. The tan is coming on nicely. The camp has a large watering hole which normally animals come to visit after dark, but we didn't see any elephants just some antelopes.
Next stop was Maun where we have been based for three nights. Maun is the gateway to the Okavango Delta, the largest inland waterway in the world. The water doesn't ever reach the ocean as it all just disappears into the land. We left the truck at camp and took mokoros (traditional dug out canoes) and camped on an island. It is so relaxing to lie back on a mokoro as you glide quietly through the water and reeds. We did some guided walks on the island and saw lots of elephant poo and animal tracks. No animals though but may be that is just as well as it would be a little bit scary to turn a corner and come face to face with an elephant! After dinner round the camp fire, the polers (people who pole the mokoros) and guides did some singing and dancing. The frog dance finale was a particular hit (Bruce even felt compelled to join in).. and yes, a frog dance is basically leaping around like frogs making frog noises - it was hilarious.
To finish up our time in Maun, we then took a 45 minute flight over the Okavanga Delta in tiny seven seater planes. I've never been in such a small plane before so it was exciting to do that, although I felt pretty sick after a while particularly when Jon asked the pilot to do some "fun" flying. Good to see Botswana from the air though and all the animals, including a herd of eight giraffes and lots of buffalo. Botswana is scarcely populated in comparison to many of the other countries we have visited, with a very dry arid landscape (although we are here in dry season so I guess it would be greener at other times of the year).
We now have a couple more nights in Botswana and then it's on to Zimbabwe.
Monday, 1 August 2011
Indulgence in Zambia
Just a quick update before we leave Zambia and cross the border tomorrow into Botswana. The theme of the past two days for me has definitely been indulgence. All you can eat breakfasts at the Waterfront camp are great. Bread and cereal from the truck between 8.30 and 9.00 or buy your own from the restaurant and eat when you like and as much as you want - not a tough decision!
Yesterday, this was followed by high tea at the Royal Livingstone Hotel for a few of us who decided that we would like to see how the other half live. I'm surprised they actually let overlanders in as it is very posh although we did try and look clean and presentable! Sweeping driveway with zebras and giraffes grazing and a stunning location overlooking the Zambezi river. High tea was good value at just $25 for two hours of eating as much as you can. Tea served in proper china cups and teapots, mini sandwiches and quiches, and about 30 different cakes to choose from. We definitely over indulged!
Today has been a "chill" day for me. Catching up on emails and internet, followed by an afternoon spa session at the hotel next door to our campsite. I do not exaggerate when I say it was the best massage I've ever had! And properly half the price of a similar session in the UK. Steam room and plunge pool followed by a little relaxation reading gossip mags and enjoying the view over the Zambezi. Then a back, neck and shoulder massage (definitely needed after sleeping in a tent for months), an Indian head massage and a foot massage. All topped off with the best shower of the trip. Not only was it steaming hot, but there were complimentary products to use, fluffy towels and a hair dryer. Given the fact that at most camp sites there is only a 50/50 chance of the shower being warm and the floor is normally filthy, this was absolute luxury!! My hair has not been this soft since I left the UK and my feet are actually clean for once. It won't last long - it's back to truck life tomorrow...
Not keen to leave the luxury hotel life style behind, I then bought a very expensive glass of wine (worth it though - it was good) and sat on the deck by the river trying to pretend that I was actually staying at this hotel and not camping next door. Zambian currency is crazy money. There is around 7500 kwatcha to one english pound so everything costs thousands. Life would be so much easier if Africa had one currency. It is hard to keep track of how much everything actually costs when we are changing currencies week by week.
So Botswana tomorrow. It was supposed to be Namibia but due to new regulations that are trying to force out overseas operators it is no longer possible to take the truck there. Kind of sad about that as I was looking forward to desert scenery, sky diving and sand boarding. But you can't have it all and it just means we will have more time in other countries and less driving so it's not all bad.
Yesterday, this was followed by high tea at the Royal Livingstone Hotel for a few of us who decided that we would like to see how the other half live. I'm surprised they actually let overlanders in as it is very posh although we did try and look clean and presentable! Sweeping driveway with zebras and giraffes grazing and a stunning location overlooking the Zambezi river. High tea was good value at just $25 for two hours of eating as much as you can. Tea served in proper china cups and teapots, mini sandwiches and quiches, and about 30 different cakes to choose from. We definitely over indulged!
Today has been a "chill" day for me. Catching up on emails and internet, followed by an afternoon spa session at the hotel next door to our campsite. I do not exaggerate when I say it was the best massage I've ever had! And properly half the price of a similar session in the UK. Steam room and plunge pool followed by a little relaxation reading gossip mags and enjoying the view over the Zambezi. Then a back, neck and shoulder massage (definitely needed after sleeping in a tent for months), an Indian head massage and a foot massage. All topped off with the best shower of the trip. Not only was it steaming hot, but there were complimentary products to use, fluffy towels and a hair dryer. Given the fact that at most camp sites there is only a 50/50 chance of the shower being warm and the floor is normally filthy, this was absolute luxury!! My hair has not been this soft since I left the UK and my feet are actually clean for once. It won't last long - it's back to truck life tomorrow...
Not keen to leave the luxury hotel life style behind, I then bought a very expensive glass of wine (worth it though - it was good) and sat on the deck by the river trying to pretend that I was actually staying at this hotel and not camping next door. Zambian currency is crazy money. There is around 7500 kwatcha to one english pound so everything costs thousands. Life would be so much easier if Africa had one currency. It is hard to keep track of how much everything actually costs when we are changing currencies week by week.
So Botswana tomorrow. It was supposed to be Namibia but due to new regulations that are trying to force out overseas operators it is no longer possible to take the truck there. Kind of sad about that as I was looking forward to desert scenery, sky diving and sand boarding. But you can't have it all and it just means we will have more time in other countries and less driving so it's not all bad.
Microlight flight over Victoria Falls
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| Me in a microlight flying over Victoria Falls |
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| Victoria Falls from the air |
Photos - Horse riding & Rafting
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| Almost swimming on horseback in Lake Malawi |
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| Horse riding - Lake Malawi |
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| Rafting the White Nile, Uganda |
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| The backwards flip! |
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