As my blog site is entitled 2011-12 Travel Adventures, I figure that any
travel experience during this time warrants a blog post. Unlike my other
adventures though, this one doesn’t involve foreign travels – just a trip to
Cornwall.
Hence I find myself on a somewhat dreary bank holiday Monday stepping off
the train in St Ives. I am pleasantly surprised by the beautiful sandy beach
and clear water, the refreshing sea air scent, and the brightly coloured shutters
of the old fishermens' cottages lining the narrow streets. After a 10 minute
stroll along the harbour and up a steep winding street, I reach my surprisingly
nice guest house. At this moment, the heavens decide to open so I wait a couple
of hours for the rain to pass before heading out for an early evening stroll.
It really is very pretty with the harbour full of fishing boats and houses
built into the hillside. There are a myriad of tiny little streets and cobbled
alleyways to explore full of quaint little boutique type shops and art
galleries. Quite impressed with St Ives!
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| St Ives |
Day 1 of the walk – St Ives to Pendeen billed as a “severe” 14 miles taking
approximately 7 hours. As it turns out, that was a very accurate description.
The day dawned bright and clear and I quickly found myself walking in just a t-shirt
as the sun shone and the breeze was very light. Stunning coastal views, golden
sandy beaches and turquoise blue waters – a truly glorious morning. As the
morning went on, the trail became increasingly challenging as the beaches gave
way to rugged coastline and a steep, narrow and rocky coastal path. Five hours
in and I am really feeling it in my legs. The trail turns to moorland with lots
of heather. I can see Pendeen Lighthouse way in the distance and it seems to
take forever to get there along a very boggy wet path. From there, I head into
the village of Pendeen – the largest settlement I’ve seen all day – to find my
decidedly average B&B at the local pub. On the plus side, my en suite has a
bath for which my aching limbs are eternally grateful…
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| Views along the walk from St Ives to Pendeen |
Day 2 – Pendeen to Porthcurno 15.6 miles graded “moderate” taking approximately 6 hours. Day 1 equals sunburn, Day 2 equals drowned rat! Such a contrast from the previous day – full waterproofs definitely required. For the first couple of hours, I could only hear the waves crashing on the rocks below because the fog was so dense that I couldn’t actually see the sea. The first part of the walk took me past several old tin mines and across lots of moorland before I reached Cape Cornwall mid-morning. Cape Cornwall was originally thought to be England’s most westerly point but, unlike Land’s End, it is entirely deserted. Then it was some rugged cliff side walking before dropping down to the impressive beach at Seneen Cove where I stopped for lunch. After lunch, on to Land’s End which was shrouded in fog so not much to see there (unless you like tacky tourist shops). From this point on, the weather really turned and walking in torrential rain and strong winds wasn’t that much fun. Not least because it was also incredibly foggy so I actually had no clue where I was most of the time and just hoped I hadn’t taken a wrong turn anywhere. Time to dig in, trudge along and dream about that hot shower and dry clothes at the end of the day. It was a shame that the weather was so bad as I’m sure parts of the walk would have been stunning had I been able to see anything.
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| Cape Cornwall |
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| Seneen Cove |
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| Land's End |
Day 3 – Porthcurno to Penzance 11.5 miles. Porthcurno Beach is regarded as
one of the best in Cornwall but on a damp foggy morning, it was completely
deserted. The first half of the walk was strenuous – lots of up and down into
rocky coves along narrow paths. Once again, views were not great due to the
mist but the trail itself was pretty with bluebells lining the path for much of
the morning. Later there were some forested areas which made a pleasant change
from being out in the open and provided some respite from the coastal breeze.
The waves were fierce and it is easy to see why so many vessels have come
unstuck in these unforgiving waters. This part of the trail was very desolate
and I saw barely a soul for the first three hours of my walk. By lunchtime, I
had reached the small harbour town of Mousehole (pronounced “Mow-zell”). A pretty
little fishing port and from this point on, the coastal path becomes very
urban, easy walking following a cycle path running parallel to the road. On to
Newlyn, a busy commercial fishing harbour, and then my final destination,
Penzance, and a well earned Cornish cream tea! Not that impressed by Penzance as
it has that sense of faded grandeur that so many British seaside towns seem to
have.
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| Mousehole |
Three days and over 41 miles of the South West Coastal Path complete. I would
recommend this section of the route to anyone who likes the great outdoors.
It’s very remote at times but the reward is great views and deserted coves and
beaches – especially if you undertake it out of season and / or when the
weather is shocking…
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