Sometimes you can go ages without seeing a lion on Lewa and
then suddenly it seems that they are everywhere…
At 6.00am, whilst lying in my bed, I hear a lion roar so
loud and close that I can only surmise that it is probably right outside my
house. However, in my sleepy state, I dismiss that notion on the basis that
sound travels quite a distance and decide not to get out of bed and draw back
the curtains. Big mistake. The guests in the cottage near mine do open their
curtains and see a lion right outside their window! Chances are it did walk
right by my house on the way to theirs…
The next afternoon, I went riding with a friend from another
lodge. We had the loveliest ride together, nice long canters and no worries
about having to guide or have guests fall off. At the end of one long canter,
Venetia suddenly shouts “S***, it’s a lion”. And there just metres from us, a
lioness pops her head up out of the long grass. A heart stopping moment.
Bizarrely, neither of our horses even notices which is just as well because
their flight instinct would kick in. We turned and walked away, casting nervous
glances over our shoulders, but fortunately the lioness did not come after us.
Exciting times!!
The day gets better. After returning to the stables, we
decide to drive back and see if we can spot the lion again. Venetia goes on
ahead whilst I try and find my cats (who are getting rather bold and don’t want
to be shut in at night, but I suspect they will be taken by a leopard if they
aren’t). When I catch up with Venetia, she has driven into a huge hole and her
car is well and truly stuck. I must admit, I did think twice about getting out
of my car knowing that there were possibly lions around. However, I figured the
engine noise and sound of people talking would probably scare them off. Perhaps
not. Having decided that we needed help, Venetia and I got into my car and as
we were about to drive away, a lion strolls by her car nonchalantly. She must
have been hidden away in the long grass just watching us!
For those reading this thinking are you crazy, I would add
that the lions on Lewa are not generally regarded as man-eating types. They
have plenty of game to hunt and are shy of people. When people are out walking,
the lions always run away when they hear people coming on foot, even though
they don’t mind a safari car parked right next to them. Admittedly you can
never entirely predict how a wild animal might behave and the walking guides do
carry guns just in case. However, the local people are more afraid of elephant,
rhino, and most of all, buffalo who are notoriously aggressive. For me,
elephant especially when they are towering over your vehicle, are pretty
terrifying. You would not want to come across one in a bad mood…
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