Leaving the buzz of Mumbai behind, we undertook yet another
uncomfortable overnight bus journey to reach Goa. A different state and a
different India. Goa is very tropical and green, with lots of palm trees, nice
beaches and a generally more laid back feel to it. There is still the odd cow
wandering along the street though so you know that you are still in India!
We spent a couple of nights in Northern Goa at Morjim Beach
and had my first swim in the Arabian Sea. Probably the warmest sea I have ever
swam in – it was like stepping into a warm bath! Morjim was basically just a
quiet stretch of sand – not crowded, not touristy and not that spectacular
either. The northern beaches of Goa are quieter than the southern section but
that is probably because they are not as pretty (although I have very high
standards when it comes to beaches, having been thoroughly spoilt over the past
18 months with numerous tropical paradises!).
After Morjim, we headed inland to Central Goa and the very
small capital city of Panjim. Goa was never part of British India – it was
colonised by the Portuguese and their influence is still apparent in the
architecture. Panjim has lots of brightly coloured buildings, pretty streets
and, in the centre of town, a huge white church on a hill. Historical Old Goa
(the original capital city) is just a short bus or rickshaw ride away. Old Goa
is full of beautiful churches, museums and Se Cathedral – the largest in Asia.
After a day of culture, it was time to explore the southern
beaches of Goa. Taking a couple of local buses, we ended up at Palolem which is
a beautiful crescent shaped stretch of sand lined with palm trees. Unlike many
beaches in southern Goa, Palolem has remained very low key. There are no major
hotels here and its charm is in the fact that everything is very ramshackle and
rustic. There are hundreds of brightly painted beach huts crammed together that
are erected temporarily each season. Consequently, they are very basic with
somewhat rudimentary electrics and plumbing but they serve their purpose well
enough for the backpacker crowd that they attract.
I am currently whiling away my days lying on the beach,
working on my tan and taking the occasional dip in the sea to cool down. It
feels like we are having a holiday from travelling. Backpacking, especially in
India, can be hard work so it’s nice to take a few days off from being on the
move to relax. There are few things in life more pleasant than watching the sun
go down, sipping a Mojito cocktail, with the sand between your toes, listening
to the waves crashing on the shore…. And the sound of dogs howling and barking.
Dogs are plentiful in India and those in Goa spend their whole day sleeping in
the shade. But as soon as the sun goes down, they gather in packs on the beach
and start making a hell of a noise which continues throughout the night.
After Palolem, we continue our journey southwards to the
state of Kerala.
Our purple beach hut |
View from our balcony |
Palolem Beach |
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