Varanasi - holy city of cows

There really is no place on earth like Varanasi. I have dubbed it the holy city of cows because I’ve never been to a city so full of them! The tiny little streets are lined with cows which are regarded as holy and not eaten, only used for milk. Varanasi is revered by Hindus as one of the holiest cities and sits on the banks of the River Ganges. Along the river side, there are numerous ghats (stone steps leading down to the water). I have never witnessed cows walking down steps before but here they do and they also spend a lot of time grazing rubbish tips. Walking the streets, you frequently bump into cows and calves, not to mention the buffalo, goats, sheep, chickens, dogs and cute puppies. Suffice to say, the streets are filthy… Aside from all the animals, walking in the Varanasi back streets, you must also watch out for the mopeds zooming around, the rickshaws, the beggars, the touts. It is a crazy place and every turn brings an even more bizarre sight.

Varanasi is best viewed from the river itself by taking a boat ride along the Ganges. In the evening, one of the ghats is host to a daily ceremony of fire, dance and light to worship the river. During the day, especially at dawn, the ghats are used for Hindus to perform their daily ablutions. A few ghats are set aside as cremation ghats (many people choose to come to Varanasi to die so that their ashes end up in the holy Ganges). You frequently pass bodies being carried down through the streets to the cremation ghats. The body is then doused in the Ganges before being cremated at the riverside in full public view. The Ganges must be one of the most polluted rivers in the world. Aside from all the litter, excrement, and ashes, it is not unusual for bodies to be dumped in the river by those who can’t afford the cremation ghat. Not a place to take a swim which makes it even more incredible that the Indian people bathe in it each day and wash their clothes. I am not getting any laundry done here that’s for sure as I know it would be washed in the river!

I am struggling to put into words some of the sights I have witnessed. It is probably a place you need to see for yourself to believe it. Life and death is starkly on public display, along with extreme poverty. On our sunrise boat ride today, people were routing through the cremation ashes looking for items of value. One guy was even in the water sieving ashes presumably trying to find items of value to sell such as jewellery or gold teeth. Varanasi really is a mind boggling place – fascinating and awful all at the same time.

The train ride from Delhi to Varanasi took 17 hours. A couple of hours longer than scheduled but as we were due to arrive at 4.45am, it didn’t really matter that it was later. Indian trains are surprisingly good, depending on which class of travel you opt for. Best is 1AC, then 2AC, 3AC, sleeper and unreserved. Unreserved appears to resemble a cattle truck in that there are no seats. Sleeper is very basic and probably okay for shorter journeys. We took 3AC which is air conditioned carriages with 3 tiers of bunks. Di and I both got one with windows so at least we could see the countryside for the day time section of the journey. We were impressed with the bunks as they had curtains and clean linen was provided, which is more than can be said for the hotels we have been staying in. Essential item number one for travel in India is a sheet sleeping bag as budget hotels either don’t provide any bed linen or it is filthy and you wouldn’t want to sleep on it. Unfortunately, despite the relative comfort of the train, sleep did not come easily mainly due to very noisy passengers and the various food and drink sales people walking up and down the carriages shouting out what they had to sell. I got very tired of hearing “chai, chai, special chai”.

Loved arriving in Varanasi at first light, taking a tuk tuk (auto rickshaw) from the train station across town, watching the city coming to life. The accommodation options are plentiful but finding a suitable room at a suitable price is hard work. Nothing has a fixed price in India so you have to bargain for everything. Even when you are being shown hotel rooms, the manager will show it to you then ask how much you would like to pay, and so the negotiations begin… Apparently our hotel has a view of the Ganges. Well yes, if you stand on the rooftop of the hotel you can just about see the river but I think to describe it as having a Ganges view is stretching it a little. Budget hotels don’t really do clean and often rooms don’t even have a window. Definitely basic, but it’s somewhere to lay your head and take a shower (hot water not guaranteed but India is very hot and humid so that is not a major issue). On the plus side, most hotels do have free and fast wifi, and at around £5 per person per night for a bed you can’t expect luxury.

Tomorrow, a final day in Varanasi and then an overnight train to Agra – home of the Taj Mahal.

 

 

Delhi in a day

Arrived in Delhi late at night on Tues after a seven hour flight direct from Nairobi. Impressed by Delhi airport – very clean and modern. Whizzed through passport control, bag waiting already, dollars exchanged for rupees and the driver waiting when I exited – smooth. May be it’s because I’m used to African roads but the roads in Delhi seem amazing and much of the city is very modern and developed.

My taxi driver spoke very little English other than they word “tip” which he must have mentioned at least five times. I get it – you are expecting a tip! Our budget hotel is in the cheap touristy area known as Paharganj near the New Delhi train station. Most of the hotels are down tiny little alleyways off the Main Bazaar so the taxis can’t get to your actual hotel. So if you want a tip Mr Taxi Driver, then I suggest rather than stopping the car and vaguely pointing to your left that you actually get out of your car, carry my bag and escort me down the side streets to the door of the hotel. With the promise of rupees, the taxi driver duly obliged.

One thing that strikes you on arriving in Delhi is how very unfriendly people are and how they have no concept of personal space. The national pastime seems to be spitting. Throughout the night, I could constantly hear men spitting in the streets (and dogs barking). Apparently, they are trying to cleanse themselves of evil spirits. Walking around the streets of Delhi the following morning, I narrowly missed being spat on several times. As you would imagine, Delhi streets are buzzing with people, taxis, auto rickshaws and cycle rickshaws everywhere. People constantly trying to sell you something, the sound of car horns, the smell of incense and street food mixed with urine (not so pleasant – Delhi seems to have numerous street urinals).

After meeting Di for breakfast in the morning, we took a stroll around the Main Bazaar area, drank delicious lemon and ginger tea, then took an afternoon tour around some of the city’s main sights such as Lakshmi Narayan Temple, India Gate, Qutb Minar and Lotus Temple. The Lotus Temple (or Bahai House of Worship as it is also known) was built in the 1980s as a modern place for any religion to go and worship. It is supposed to represent a lotus flower but actually looks quite similar to the iconic Sydney Opera House. The best site of the day was Humayun’s Tomb – the red sandstone and white marble colours looked beautiful as the sun was starting to go down.

We had planned to spend two full days in Delhi and then take overnight train to Varanasi tonight. However, due to limited train availability, we have taken an earlier but very slow train to Varanasi. That means no time in Delhi for the Red Fort or Old Delhi area, although I’m assured by Di that the Red Fort was rather run down. Di arrived in Delhi a couple of days before me so given the choice of taking this train or waiting a few days, there is no contest. And to be honest, I would be bored in Delhi as big cities bore me quite quickly. Can’t be wasting time as there are too many other places to go in India!

India - here I come!

I’m flying to Delhi tomorrow! I have wanted to visit India for years and finally the time has come. I have just over six weeks to explore this vast country. What makes it even more fantastic is that Dianne and I have no schedule. The extent of our concrete plans so far is booking an airport pick up and a room for the first night. I love the freedom of backpacking - not knowing where each day will take you and just enjoying the adventure.

I think I have escaped from Lewa just in time. The rains, which I was assured by numerous locals would start on 15^th October, actually started last week. Absolutely crazy thunderstorms all night long. One thunder clap was so loud that we all agreed at breakfast the next morning that it sounded like a bomb being dropped. Whilst the rains are fantastic for Lewa, it is quite miserable being there in that weather because you literally cannot go anywhere or do anything. Within hours, the roads (I use that term loosely) are impossible to drive on without getting stuck. Much of Lewa is black cotton soil which vehicles just sink into. The only hope of getting through it is just to drive really fast (which is quite fun but quite scary). What is incredible though is how the grass is already starting to turn green. It is hard to believe that a few days ago, Lewa was dusty, parched, dryed up yellows and browns and before our eyes, you can see green sprouts emerging.

You would think that the horses would enjoy the rain, but clearly they don’t make the connection between rain and green grass. They virtually had to be pushed out of their stables the first morning as they did not want to get wet! They soon got into it though and several took mud baths completely caking themselves in mud from head to toe.

Luckily, the rain has not been constant and it has mostly been at night. When I left Lewa today, it was a beautiful sunny day. As always, sad to leave the horses behind and the kittens who have grown into gorgeous little cats. Everyone loves them. I’m still convinced that they will be eaten by leopard one night but so far, so good. Whether they will be there when I return from India is another matter…

It seems that whenever I plan to leave Lewa, the horses decide to be sick. They must know that I am leaving! When I came back to the UK in April, Champagne (foal number 1) had colic the day I was departing. This week, Santa (foal number 2) has had colic for three days straight. The drugs work for a few hours and then he is back to rolling round on the floor in agony. Eventually, he had to be stomach tubed and he now seems to be back on track. As I pointed out to him, I did not spend six months bandaging his legs for him to die on me now! Note to self, do not let the foals near freshly baled lucerne. That said, his little sister, Sheba (foal number 3), ate it and was absolutely fine. I think Santa was just being a bit gutsy and overdid it. It also appears that foal number 4 could be on the way. Somewhat unexpected as the vet did not think this mare was in foal when he checked back in June. However, she did go to the stallion 11 months ago and looks suspiciously pregnant to me with her fat belly and udders full of milk! Watch this space.

We are also getting a new horse - a yearling colt coming up from Zimbabwe who we plan to keep as a stallion as he comes from a long line of polo ponies. Poor little boy has been cruelly snatched from his mum (his owners go in for natural weaning so he was still with the mare) and put on a lorry with a bunch of other horses for the six day drive from Zim to Kenya. He arrived in Nairobi last night after a particularly gruelling 20 hour driving day! We own two of his aunties so they have been dispatched to Nairobi to accompany him on the last leg of his journey to Lewa. So sad that I won’t be there to see him arrive.

Anyway, I too am in Nairobi tonight where it is pouring with rain. Time for bed now and, best of all, I won’t need to get up at 6.20am as my flight isn’t until lunchtime. Every single day on Lewa my alarm goes off at 6.20am. Much as I love the horses, I am very much looking forward to a lie in!

Lions everywhere!

Sometimes you can go ages without seeing a lion on Lewa and then suddenly it seems that they are everywhere…

At 6.00am, whilst lying in my bed, I hear a lion roar so loud and close that I can only surmise that it is probably right outside my house. However, in my sleepy state, I dismiss that notion on the basis that sound travels quite a distance and decide not to get out of bed and draw back the curtains. Big mistake. The guests in the cottage near mine do open their curtains and see a lion right outside their window! Chances are it did walk right by my house on the way to theirs…

The next afternoon, I went riding with a friend from another lodge. We had the loveliest ride together, nice long canters and no worries about having to guide or have guests fall off. At the end of one long canter, Venetia suddenly shouts “S***, it’s a lion”. And there just metres from us, a lioness pops her head up out of the long grass. A heart stopping moment. Bizarrely, neither of our horses even notices which is just as well because their flight instinct would kick in. We turned and walked away, casting nervous glances over our shoulders, but fortunately the lioness did not come after us. Exciting times!!

The day gets better. After returning to the stables, we decide to drive back and see if we can spot the lion again. Venetia goes on ahead whilst I try and find my cats (who are getting rather bold and don’t want to be shut in at night, but I suspect they will be taken by a leopard if they aren’t). When I catch up with Venetia, she has driven into a huge hole and her car is well and truly stuck. I must admit, I did think twice about getting out of my car knowing that there were possibly lions around. However, I figured the engine noise and sound of people talking would probably scare them off. Perhaps not. Having decided that we needed help, Venetia and I got into my car and as we were about to drive away, a lion strolls by her car nonchalantly. She must have been hidden away in the long grass just watching us!

For those reading this thinking are you crazy, I would add that the lions on Lewa are not generally regarded as man-eating types. They have plenty of game to hunt and are shy of people. When people are out walking, the lions always run away when they hear people coming on foot, even though they don’t mind a safari car parked right next to them. Admittedly you can never entirely predict how a wild animal might behave and the walking guides do carry guns just in case. However, the local people are more afraid of elephant, rhino, and most of all, buffalo who are notoriously aggressive. For me, elephant especially when they are towering over your vehicle, are pretty terrifying. You would not want to come across one in a bad mood…

Lewa Photos - June to Sept 12

Getting up close and personal with rhino

Cheetah resting after an unsuccessful hunting mission

Pombe Rocks

Lioness

Children at Il Ngwesi Masai village

Grevy zebra

Nairobi - visas and spa treatments

On checking my blog, I realised that it is almost three weeks since my last post! Well, tonight I have free wifi (and fast – a rare find in Africa) so I had best maximise on this opportunity.

Had a busy day in Nairobi. First stop, the High Commission of India to make my application for an Indian visa. I naively thought that travelling to India would be straight forward. Apparently not. All British passport holders have to obtain a visa before they arrive in India. Not surprisingly being a British passport holder not currently resident in Britain makes matters even more complicated. Despite the fact that you make your application on line, you are still required to print the application and visit the High Commission of India in Nairobi in person to submit the form and photos. Time taken to queue up to do this – approximately two hours. To make the system even more inefficient, you are then required to go to the Bank of India to pay for your visa and then wait a further week for it to be issued. Fortunately, you are allowed to send someone to collect your passport on your behalf so I am saved the expense of a further visit to Nairobi next week!

Kenyans always talk about how bad the traffic is in Nairobi – having experienced it at first hand today, they are not exaggerating. An hour and a half taxi journey to get from my lodgings (admittedly in the suburbs of Nairobi but still less than 10 miles into the city centre) to the High Commission. Then another hour to get back out to Karen by which time I felt I had deserved an afternoon of pampering. A hair cut, lunch, massage and pedicure later, I am feeling fully rejuvenated. My feet have not been so clean in a very long time. It is hard to comprehend the dust and the dirt that is part and parcel of living in Kenya unless you have experienced it first hand.

Very much enjoying spending a couple of nights away from Lewa actually. A much needed break from horses and guests and I wish I was staying longer. But back to Lewa tomorrow. For the first time ever, I am flying from Nairobi to Lewa and looking forward to seeing more of Kenya from the air. An hour’s flight rather than the long tedious 4-5 hour journey by road.

Yesterday was a long day. Starting with a biplane flight at 6.30am with mum for her last morning on Lewa. I love the biplane! Watch “Out of Africa” if you want to get a feel for what flying over Kenya in a tiny open cockpit plane is like. It is a very special experience. It is amazing to fly over some of the northern landscape, especially now in the midst of the dry season. It is incredible how simply and remotely some Africans still live. Just a basic mud hut and a corral for their animals (mainly goats). Most of the river beds are completely dried up so they must walk for hours, if not days, to find water. How they and their animals survive is beyond me, but many Masai claim to be happiest living in the bush this way often surviving on milk from their goats or cattle for days on end.

After the biplane, mum and I went for a last horse ride before breakfast then the long tiring drive down to Nairobi to drop mum off at the airport for her night flight home. Did lots of riding whilst mum was staying, as well as going out on a few drives (cheetahs, lions, elephants, serval cat, etc. etc), and visiting Pombe Rocks. Pombe Rocks provides one of the best views across Lewa and is where some of my grandfather’s ashes are scattered as Lewa was one of his favourite places in the world. He loved Kenya and visited many times during his life.

Just a final note on serval cats. Very rare – normally only seen at night and I’ve now seen two in the day time in the space of one week. Their body is a bit like a cheetahs but smaller. The first occasion, I was out riding with a guest when one jumped out in front of us across the track, spooking the horses. Wasn’t actually entirely sure what it was at that time and had to look in the book and discuss with the local guides when we got to bush breakfast. Incidentally, that was a very cool ride – we even saw lions. Fortunately, my spotting skills have much improved and I saw them from a good distance off so we were able to avoid the horses seeing them. That said, whilst keeping my eyes on the lions, we almost bumped into three rhino so may be my spotting skills still need some work….

A Close Encounter with Rhino and Cheetah on the Hunt

Nothing gets your heart racing like walking in the bush and getting up close to rhino. Going on walking safaris isn’t something that I’ve done a lot of and it really is so much more exciting than viewing game from the safety of a vehicle. As we were walking along the river, we spotted three white rhino having a drink. We approached quietly then crouched down by a bush to wait and watch. The rhino, one mother and her two young, after finishing their drink start walking directly towards us. With strict instructions from our Masai guide to stay quiet and not move, they literally came to within ten feet of us. They then went on by, but having smelt us came back for a second look. Rhino have very poor eye sight but consequently their hearing and smell senses are heightened. They also have a tendency to charge blindly in the direction of anything they perceive as a threat. I was slightly concerned when our guide whispers to us to pick up rocks, particularly after scanning around and realising there was not a handy rock anywhere within reach. In the event of a rhino charging, the guide will usually throw a rock to try and distract it and send it off course. Whilst the guides do carry guns, shooting such an endangered species as rhino would be very much a last resort. After what seemed like an age of cowering behind the bush, and was probably just a few minutes, the rhino decided to move on. Phew! We continued with our walk encountering lots of giraffe, zebra, waterbuck, wart hog and five more rhino – this time not at such close range.

As if that wasn’t exciting enough, the following day, I saw two cheetah attempting to make a kill. Although I’ve seen cheetah many times, seeing them in full flight after a Grant’s Gazelle is new for me and a spectacular sight. Our patience was rewarded after watching the cheetah for an hour walking across the plain and scanning the savannah for potential food. Sadly, these two female cheetah are young, inexperienced hunters. They were even attempting to pounce on small animals (mongoose, hare, etc.) in the bushes so they must have been very hungry – they certainly looked skinny. After failing there, I didn’t fancy their chances much with bigger game but as luck would have it a hapless gazelle wandered obliviously straight into their path. At this point, we could no longer see the cheetah as they had crouched low into the grass. Then pow! Two cheetah in full flight, dust flying everywhere. They got to within a whisker of the gazelle but it managed to escape unscathed. Better luck next time girls…