Well, it's my final day in NZ. Not sure what has happened in the past three days but I think it's probably a good thing that I finished the Flying Kiwi trip early. I never would have got myself organised for the next stage of my adventure otherwise!
So for those of you who don't already know, I am heading back to the continent that I love - Africa. I have been lucky enough to land a job working with horses on a game reserve in Northern Kenya (website is www.lewawilderness.com if you are interested). I definitely rediscovered my passion for horses during my travels in Africa so this provides me with a fantastic opportunity to live and work in a beautiful place. Has to be more fun than working in finance anyway?!
The last few days have largely been spent trying to shift this cold, shopping for horsey stuff and all other essential items that aren't so easy to come by in Africa (toiletries, etc), doing laundry and generally just chilling out in my hotel room. So much nicer than hostel life. Mind you, the unfortunate people who had to share a dorm with me in Wellington the other night must have been cursing me - coughing and sneezing all night long. Still, I consider it karma for all the nights I have been disturbed by people coming in late, getting up early, etc - that's backpacker life for you. A cheap bed means a rubbish night's sleep. Staying in a hotel has been fab - my own bathroom and a TV. NZ TV is exactly like English TV - has all the same shows, even Emmerdale? I can't say that I've missed TV whilst travelling but it is quite nice to be able to lie in bed watching Michael McIntyre (my favourite comedian) on TV. Reckon tonight is going to be takeaway pizza and more TV - must enjoy these things whilst I still can..
Anyway, sounds like it is all kicking off in the UK with the strikes (even NZ news programs have reported this). Just read that Jeremy Clarkson announced that strikers should be shot - is it wrong that I found that funny?!
Well, enough from me. I haven't actually done anything news worthy in the past few days. My most exciting adventure was locating an equestrian store (what did we do before internet?) and getting the bus out to Newmarket, an Auckland suburb, to buy a hat, chaps and boots. Other than that, my hotel is right in the centre of Auckland so everything else I need is right on my doorstep.
Tomorrow, flight to Bangkok, than on to Nairobi. Hopefully, they will actually let me in to Kenya and ignore the fact that I have no onward flight ticket. I'll soon find out anyway....
Western Sahara 2016
Wednesday 30 November 2011
North Island Photos
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| Cathedral Cove |
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| Spurting geyser, Rotorua |
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| Champagne Pools, Rotorua |
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| Huka Falls |
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| Enjoying the river en route to Taupo |
Sunday 27 November 2011
The rest of North Island
From the Coromandel Peninsula, it was on to Rotorua, famed for its thermal wonders - hot springs, exploding mud pools and geysers. There were a number of different activities on offer, but I elected for an afternoon at the Polynesian Spa to enjoy the hot pools and a revitalising back massage - much needed after all the exercise I am getting on this trip. Nice to have a bit of luxury before a night at a wilderness camp by Lake Rerewhakaaitu. Went for a cycle ride around the lake before dinner.
The next morning, we went to a geyser which goes off each day at 10.15am (with a little chemical help so not entirely natural) and some mud pools - not the type you go in unless you fancy third degree burns. Then it was on to Wai-O-Tapu thermal wonderland which included numerous craters, pools and crazy coloured lakes ranging from browns to flourescent greens due to the minerals.
Next stop was Huka Falls where the bus dropped us and we walked into the lakeside town of Taupo. Lake Taupo is the largest lake in NZ and one of the largest crater lakes in the world. The walk was lovely all along the river with a refreshing swim at the end. There was also a hot waterfall where you could sit in the pool below if you didn't fancy a cold dip in the river.
We spent the night at a camp in Turangi. The next day, most people did the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This is one of NZ's greatest day walks and the weather held out (for once!). Unfortunately, I couldn't do it because I have a stinking cold and thought that a day hike probably wouldn't help me get better any quicker. Now in Wellington (again) and I've decided to leave the Flying Kiwi trip at this point. Only three days left to go but loads of travelling - another ferry crossing back to Picton, then a drive down the coast to Kaikoura and then to Christchurch before a flight back to Auckland. Rather than do this, I'm just going to spend one night in Wellington then fly to Auckland tomorrow. That will give me three nights in Auckland to prepare for the next leg of my adventure and hopefully shift this cold. Treating myself to three nights in a hotel which I'm very excited about. I know I shouldn't complain about travelling as I'm getting to see and do so many amazing things, however, you can get sick of sleeping either in a tent or a shared dorm room with shared bathroom facilities.
Been pottering around Wellington today. It is often referred to as 'windy Welly' by locals and today I could certainly see why. The wind was gusting to such an extent that it was actually hard to stay on your feet and you have to dodge flying debris. Crazy - glad I'm not on the ferry crossing to Picton tonight - could be a rough one. Went to the Te Papa national museum this afternoon. Not normally a fan of museums but this was quite interesting - particularly the giant squid and the earthquake simulator - and it's all free.
The next morning, we went to a geyser which goes off each day at 10.15am (with a little chemical help so not entirely natural) and some mud pools - not the type you go in unless you fancy third degree burns. Then it was on to Wai-O-Tapu thermal wonderland which included numerous craters, pools and crazy coloured lakes ranging from browns to flourescent greens due to the minerals.
Next stop was Huka Falls where the bus dropped us and we walked into the lakeside town of Taupo. Lake Taupo is the largest lake in NZ and one of the largest crater lakes in the world. The walk was lovely all along the river with a refreshing swim at the end. There was also a hot waterfall where you could sit in the pool below if you didn't fancy a cold dip in the river.
We spent the night at a camp in Turangi. The next day, most people did the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This is one of NZ's greatest day walks and the weather held out (for once!). Unfortunately, I couldn't do it because I have a stinking cold and thought that a day hike probably wouldn't help me get better any quicker. Now in Wellington (again) and I've decided to leave the Flying Kiwi trip at this point. Only three days left to go but loads of travelling - another ferry crossing back to Picton, then a drive down the coast to Kaikoura and then to Christchurch before a flight back to Auckland. Rather than do this, I'm just going to spend one night in Wellington then fly to Auckland tomorrow. That will give me three nights in Auckland to prepare for the next leg of my adventure and hopefully shift this cold. Treating myself to three nights in a hotel which I'm very excited about. I know I shouldn't complain about travelling as I'm getting to see and do so many amazing things, however, you can get sick of sleeping either in a tent or a shared dorm room with shared bathroom facilities.
Been pottering around Wellington today. It is often referred to as 'windy Welly' by locals and today I could certainly see why. The wind was gusting to such an extent that it was actually hard to stay on your feet and you have to dodge flying debris. Crazy - glad I'm not on the ferry crossing to Picton tonight - could be a rough one. Went to the Te Papa national museum this afternoon. Not normally a fan of museums but this was quite interesting - particularly the giant squid and the earthquake simulator - and it's all free.
Wednesday 23 November 2011
The Bay of Islands
From Auckland, we headed up to the Bay of Islands in the top north east corner of North Island. Cycled the last 12km into our camp site by the river where we stayed for two nights. The following day, I did my longest cycle ever - probably around 35km. Started by taking a ferry from Paihia over to one of the islands then cycling from the small settlement of Russell to Okiato, then another ferry to Opua. The road from Opua back to Paihia was so long and steep. Ended up walking up the steeper hills! After lunch in Paihia, we were sufficiently revitalised to do the cycle back to camp. A very hot day so I then spent the rest of the afternoon comatose by the pool topping up my tan - the first time I've actually had the weather to sunbathe in NZ.
Next day, we drove to Oponoi dunes where we went sand boarding. This basically involves sliding down dunes on a boogie board. As the tide was right in, it was a case of down the dunes head first then straight into the water - such good fun! Apart from when you come off your board and end up sliding on your belly which inevitably I managed to do. Later on we did some walking in the Waipoua forest to see giant Kauri trees, then a further drive to our camp in Owera just outside of Auckland. In the evening, we went to some hot pools which was really nice. There were several outdoor pools of varying temperatures but some as hot as a good hot bath. Given I don't get the opportunity to have too many baths whilst travelling, this was quite a treat. One pool even had a movie screen so that you can watch movies whilst relaxing in the pool. There were also some awesome slides particularly the Black Hole which was great fun.
I never cease to be amazed by how NZ can literally have four seasons in one day. It was blowing a gale last night (not good when you're in a tent), then pouring with rain as we drove into Auckland this morning. I found it particularly satisfying to be stuck in rush hour traffic watching all the miserable commuters in the rain. It reminded me what life used to be like for me, but not any more! Makes me appreciate travelling so much more when I have little reminders of how rubbish working is. So we dropped off some passengers in Auckland and picked up some more. The bus is now quite full with 27 passengers on board.
A busy afternoon with a cycle ride followed by a walk to Cathedral Cove. Beautiful beaches here - this is the east coast of North Island and the place where lots of Aucklanders come on holiday during the summer. Time for a shower and an early night as we are bush camping tomorrow. Have treated myself to an upgrade tonight. Have my own little cabin with a double bed - luxury indeed but a bargain at just 13 dollars (or about 7 pounds).
Next day, we drove to Oponoi dunes where we went sand boarding. This basically involves sliding down dunes on a boogie board. As the tide was right in, it was a case of down the dunes head first then straight into the water - such good fun! Apart from when you come off your board and end up sliding on your belly which inevitably I managed to do. Later on we did some walking in the Waipoua forest to see giant Kauri trees, then a further drive to our camp in Owera just outside of Auckland. In the evening, we went to some hot pools which was really nice. There were several outdoor pools of varying temperatures but some as hot as a good hot bath. Given I don't get the opportunity to have too many baths whilst travelling, this was quite a treat. One pool even had a movie screen so that you can watch movies whilst relaxing in the pool. There were also some awesome slides particularly the Black Hole which was great fun.
I never cease to be amazed by how NZ can literally have four seasons in one day. It was blowing a gale last night (not good when you're in a tent), then pouring with rain as we drove into Auckland this morning. I found it particularly satisfying to be stuck in rush hour traffic watching all the miserable commuters in the rain. It reminded me what life used to be like for me, but not any more! Makes me appreciate travelling so much more when I have little reminders of how rubbish working is. So we dropped off some passengers in Auckland and picked up some more. The bus is now quite full with 27 passengers on board.
A busy afternoon with a cycle ride followed by a walk to Cathedral Cove. Beautiful beaches here - this is the east coast of North Island and the place where lots of Aucklanders come on holiday during the summer. Time for a shower and an early night as we are bush camping tomorrow. Have treated myself to an upgrade tonight. Have my own little cabin with a double bed - luxury indeed but a bargain at just 13 dollars (or about 7 pounds).
Sunday 20 November 2011
South Island Photos
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| Mount Cook in the background |
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| The group hiking in the snow near Mount Cook |
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| The Flying Kiwi bus |
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| Views on the Routeburn Track |
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| Horseriding on the beach at Punakaiki |
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| Abel Tasman National Park |
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| The marae |
Nelson to Auckland
Nelson - the centre of NZ right at the top of South Island. Did the touristy thing of walking from the town up the hill to the monument that signifies the exact centre point of the country. From Nelson, we headed to a Maori village (Maoris being the indigenous people of NZ - many of whom still live a traditional tribal life). The "Flying Kiwi tribe" were invited to stay in their "marae" which is basically a huge room used for weddings, funerals, village meetings, etc. It was a beautiful building with incredibly intricate carvings - no shoes, food or drink are allowed inside. There is a formal welcoming ceremony for visitors to the marae which includes the "hungi" - the touching of noses. Later we had a traditional meal which everyone got involved in preparing. It is basically a huge tray of potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkin and meats - whole chickens, and legs of pork, mutton and hogget. This is then cooked in the ground for a few hours using a kind of steaming method. A fire is lit earlier in the day to heat up the hot irons buried in the ground. The tray of food is lowered in and covered with wet clothes, then quickly covered with earth again to create the steaming effect. Tasted delicious! The following morning, we went out on the water to experience a waka paddle - the types of canoe the Maoris use.The men in the group were also taught how to do the "haka" (the warrior dance that the All Blacks always do before each rugby game).
Next stop was Picton - a pretty little town on the tip of South Island from where you can catch a ferry to North Island which we did that evening. The ferry takes you to Wellington (the capital of NZ) where we spent the night in a hostel before meeting the new bus, driver and guide the following day. Lots of the group have now left as many were just doing the South Island loop, but we are picking up various new people along the way so the group is constantly changing.
The last couple of days since leaving Wellington have involved quite a bit of driving. The scenery on North Island so far seems less dramatic than that in the south. It is very much farming country (mostly dairy) and reminds me of rural England and Wales. We spent a night in the Taranaki region at New Plymouth. Yesterday, we went to Waitomo Caves which are famed for their glow worms. Took a black water rafting trip through the caves which was fun but a little bit tame if I'm honest. Being NZ, I was expecting more adrenalin to be involved but we were mostly just drifting through the caves slowly in our inner tubes (black water rafting or tubing basically involves making your way through a cave or canyon using a rubber ring as a flotation device). Only one jump and one slide involved which was actually a white plastic slide that had been put in rather than a natural waterfall slide?!
From Waitomo, it was a long afternoon drive all the way back to Auckland where we have just spent a night in a backpackers hostel. Did something different last night which was going to a 1940s swing dance night. Why you may ask? Well one of the girls from the trip is into swing dancing and asked some of us if we fancied coming along to see the band and watch (not to dance I hasten to add). It was really good fun - a little bit like a live version of Strictly Come Dancing without the judges.
Off to the Bay of Islands today..
Next stop was Picton - a pretty little town on the tip of South Island from where you can catch a ferry to North Island which we did that evening. The ferry takes you to Wellington (the capital of NZ) where we spent the night in a hostel before meeting the new bus, driver and guide the following day. Lots of the group have now left as many were just doing the South Island loop, but we are picking up various new people along the way so the group is constantly changing.
The last couple of days since leaving Wellington have involved quite a bit of driving. The scenery on North Island so far seems less dramatic than that in the south. It is very much farming country (mostly dairy) and reminds me of rural England and Wales. We spent a night in the Taranaki region at New Plymouth. Yesterday, we went to Waitomo Caves which are famed for their glow worms. Took a black water rafting trip through the caves which was fun but a little bit tame if I'm honest. Being NZ, I was expecting more adrenalin to be involved but we were mostly just drifting through the caves slowly in our inner tubes (black water rafting or tubing basically involves making your way through a cave or canyon using a rubber ring as a flotation device). Only one jump and one slide involved which was actually a white plastic slide that had been put in rather than a natural waterfall slide?!
From Waitomo, it was a long afternoon drive all the way back to Auckland where we have just spent a night in a backpackers hostel. Did something different last night which was going to a 1940s swing dance night. Why you may ask? Well one of the girls from the trip is into swing dancing and asked some of us if we fancied coming along to see the band and watch (not to dance I hasten to add). It was really good fun - a little bit like a live version of Strictly Come Dancing without the judges.
Off to the Bay of Islands today..
Wednesday 16 November 2011
Horse riding in Punakaiki & Sky Diving in Abel Tasman
From Fox Glacier, we headed to the Okarito Lagoon where we camped by the beach. Nice campfire on the beach, an early night, and then a 5.30am walk the next morning. Haven't been up that early in a while. The hope was to see the elusive kiwi bird - we didn't but the sunrise over the lagoon was worth it anyway. When I can drag myself out of bed, I really do love the early mornings.
We then headed towards Punakaiki further up the coast. On the way we stopped off at the Bushman's Museum which was really interesting. I now know a whole lot more about NZ's deer farming industry. In short, wild deer started to decimate the landscape so they started a massive cull. They then realised that there was great demand abroad for venison and that they would be better off capturing the remaining deer and farming it. Capturing the deer is described as "NZ's last great adventure" and methods included men throwing themselves out of helicopters to wrestle a deer to the ground!? Eventually, they came up with slightly more sophisticated methods such as using net guns fired from helicopters rather than just humans!
A beautiful sunny afternoon in Punakaiki which was great for those of us who went horse riding. Had a great ride along and across the river and then on to the beach. Myself and one of the guides went off separately to the rest of the group so that we could go faster. Had a brilliant gallop along the beach. The horses went flat out racing each other - the wind and the speed making my eyes water - so much fun! Another camp fire that night on the beach.
Next day, a long winding coastal drive up to the northwest and Abel Tasman National Park. The coastline has such a rugged and raw natural beauty - all very untouched. Arrived in Abel Tasman just after lunch and headed straight to the sky dive centre. Sky diving has to be one of the most amazing things I've ever done. Pretty terrifying on the way up in the tiny plane looking down at the world below. As we were doing the highest jump of 16,500 feet, they gave us oxygen masks to breath through before we jumped. Then the plane door opens and all I could really see were clouds. Before you know it, you have been flung out of the plane attached to your jump master. I guess I probably closed my eyes at that point but after a couple of seconds, I felt my jump master tap me on the shoulders which means you can uncross your arms and start enjoying it. Freefall is such a fantastic sensation. Had over a minutes worth of freefall before the parachute opened and I can honestly say that I didn't want it to end. You don't really feel like you are falling, you feel like you are flying because the air pressure is so strong. All over far too quickly and I would love to do it again.
Spent the next day walking in Abel Tasman NP along a coastal path - finally the weather seems to have turned in our favour. Today we are in Nelson and now I must sign off as the bus is about to leave... Bit of a rushed blog post but yesterday's plan to blog was ruined by a bee sting on the way back from our walk. Very painful and today my face is swollen and my eye half closed - very attractive!
We then headed towards Punakaiki further up the coast. On the way we stopped off at the Bushman's Museum which was really interesting. I now know a whole lot more about NZ's deer farming industry. In short, wild deer started to decimate the landscape so they started a massive cull. They then realised that there was great demand abroad for venison and that they would be better off capturing the remaining deer and farming it. Capturing the deer is described as "NZ's last great adventure" and methods included men throwing themselves out of helicopters to wrestle a deer to the ground!? Eventually, they came up with slightly more sophisticated methods such as using net guns fired from helicopters rather than just humans!
A beautiful sunny afternoon in Punakaiki which was great for those of us who went horse riding. Had a great ride along and across the river and then on to the beach. Myself and one of the guides went off separately to the rest of the group so that we could go faster. Had a brilliant gallop along the beach. The horses went flat out racing each other - the wind and the speed making my eyes water - so much fun! Another camp fire that night on the beach.
Next day, a long winding coastal drive up to the northwest and Abel Tasman National Park. The coastline has such a rugged and raw natural beauty - all very untouched. Arrived in Abel Tasman just after lunch and headed straight to the sky dive centre. Sky diving has to be one of the most amazing things I've ever done. Pretty terrifying on the way up in the tiny plane looking down at the world below. As we were doing the highest jump of 16,500 feet, they gave us oxygen masks to breath through before we jumped. Then the plane door opens and all I could really see were clouds. Before you know it, you have been flung out of the plane attached to your jump master. I guess I probably closed my eyes at that point but after a couple of seconds, I felt my jump master tap me on the shoulders which means you can uncross your arms and start enjoying it. Freefall is such a fantastic sensation. Had over a minutes worth of freefall before the parachute opened and I can honestly say that I didn't want it to end. You don't really feel like you are falling, you feel like you are flying because the air pressure is so strong. All over far too quickly and I would love to do it again.
Spent the next day walking in Abel Tasman NP along a coastal path - finally the weather seems to have turned in our favour. Today we are in Nelson and now I must sign off as the bus is about to leave... Bit of a rushed blog post but yesterday's plan to blog was ruined by a bee sting on the way back from our walk. Very painful and today my face is swollen and my eye half closed - very attractive!
Saturday 12 November 2011
The West Coast of South Island
What a beautiful drive to Queenstown. The sun was shining, everywhere is so green, and it is great to see so many happy healthy animals enjoying the spring grass - lots of lambs, calves, deer (deer farming seems to be big here), alpacas and horses. Queenstown is the home of adrenalin and the town where bungy jumping was first done. I was expecting Queenstown to be big and very commercialised. In actual fact, it is in a beautiful setting and really not a big place at all. There are so many activities to choose from here. If I had unlimited time and cash, I could literally not be bored for several weeks - 3 bungy jumps, sky diving, paragliding, mountain biking, handgliding, bridge swings, jet boating, zip lines, quad bikes, canyoning, climbing, abseiling, horse riding - the list of possible activities is endless. There are also lots of great walks so the first afternoon, a few of us climbed up Queenstown hill which gave brilliant views over the whole area. Despite all the adrenalin activities on offer, I ended up doing the zip trek whereby you take the gondola up the mountain, then follow a series of tree top to tree top zip wires down through the forests to the bottom. This is fun but it's not really that scary. However, a few people fancied doing it so it was good fun to all go together. The bungy jumps here are a bit lame in comparison to the one I did in South Africa - the largest is only 134m compared to 216m in SA. I probably should have sky dived as that is still on my list of things to do, however I have at least two more opportunities to do that in NZ so I was saving it for another day. It was a beautiful sunny day in Queenstown though so may be I should have done it whilst the weather permitted.
We also had a big night out in Queenstown. Hilarious times at Cowboys bar where they have a mechanical rodeo bull you can ride. What I found particularly entertaining was that they make you sign a disclaimer before you get on! We also paid a brief visit to Altitude Bar which is now more commonly known as "The Mike Tindall Bar". Suffice to say, we didn't even stay for a drink as it is quite sleazy. Hardly surprising that the England rugby team did so poorly in the World Cup if this is the sort of venue they frequent!
Also bumped into Cherie and Jason (from my Africa trip) in Queenstown. They too are travelling around NZ and they were staying at the same camp site. Lovely to have drinks with them and catch up. May well see them again as we seem to be heading up the west coast in the same direction.
From Queenstown, we headed towards Wanaka. Once again the proposed bush camping option had to be abandoned due to the weather - just the one day of sunshine in Queenstown then back to rain. I think I mentioned in a recent blog post that I was looking forward to camping again? I take that back. I hate camping and I am upgrading to a dorm room / cabin / chalet / whatever bed option is available at every given opportunity. Why suffer if you don't need to?!
Saturday morning, I went jet boating on the Wilkin and Makora rivers. Good way to start the day. Then we drove up the west coast, stopping off here and there for short walks, photos, etc and an awesome and very steep downhill bike ride over the Haast Pass. The day finished with a 30km cycle ride into our camp near Fox Glacier. Our guides said it was 20km but they lied as we saw road signs that clearly stated otherwise- exhausted and aching by the time I got to camp that night!
So today the plan was to go heli hiking on the Fox Glacier. That is, a helicopter ride up to the top of the glacier, a couple of hours hiking and then helicopter back. Sounds very cool, doesn't it? But for the second time this trip, my attempt to get a helicopter ride failed due to the weather. I shall console myself with the fact that I have saved $400. Been walking instead, but it has been quite miserable, foggy and wet all day. Let's hope it improves soon...
We also had a big night out in Queenstown. Hilarious times at Cowboys bar where they have a mechanical rodeo bull you can ride. What I found particularly entertaining was that they make you sign a disclaimer before you get on! We also paid a brief visit to Altitude Bar which is now more commonly known as "The Mike Tindall Bar". Suffice to say, we didn't even stay for a drink as it is quite sleazy. Hardly surprising that the England rugby team did so poorly in the World Cup if this is the sort of venue they frequent!
Also bumped into Cherie and Jason (from my Africa trip) in Queenstown. They too are travelling around NZ and they were staying at the same camp site. Lovely to have drinks with them and catch up. May well see them again as we seem to be heading up the west coast in the same direction.
From Queenstown, we headed towards Wanaka. Once again the proposed bush camping option had to be abandoned due to the weather - just the one day of sunshine in Queenstown then back to rain. I think I mentioned in a recent blog post that I was looking forward to camping again? I take that back. I hate camping and I am upgrading to a dorm room / cabin / chalet / whatever bed option is available at every given opportunity. Why suffer if you don't need to?!
Saturday morning, I went jet boating on the Wilkin and Makora rivers. Good way to start the day. Then we drove up the west coast, stopping off here and there for short walks, photos, etc and an awesome and very steep downhill bike ride over the Haast Pass. The day finished with a 30km cycle ride into our camp near Fox Glacier. Our guides said it was 20km but they lied as we saw road signs that clearly stated otherwise- exhausted and aching by the time I got to camp that night!
So today the plan was to go heli hiking on the Fox Glacier. That is, a helicopter ride up to the top of the glacier, a couple of hours hiking and then helicopter back. Sounds very cool, doesn't it? But for the second time this trip, my attempt to get a helicopter ride failed due to the weather. I shall console myself with the fact that I have saved $400. Been walking instead, but it has been quite miserable, foggy and wet all day. Let's hope it improves soon...
Wednesday 9 November 2011
Tramping & Cycling on South Island
Last time I updated my blog I was in the town of Oamaru. Many people describe NZ as being like England 20 years ago. If they mean in terms of it being slightly backward, then I would agree. On a Saturday afternoon in town, most places are closed. And on Sunday, well everything is closed! I'm not sure where all the people are in NZ - parts of South Island seem so remote and uninhabited - incredibly beautiful pristine scenery though.
We continued down the east coast of South Island. My first cycle ride was a nice easy one along the coast into our camp where we had a campfire and fireworks on the beach as it was the 5th Nov. The next day, we stopped off at the Mouraki Boulders, then onto the city of Dunedin which is apparently the furthest city in the world from London. Did a great downhill bike ride (i.e. minimal effort on my part) into Dunedin and then climbed up the world's steepest street. That night, we camped at Kaka Point (in the rain naturally) and had a bbq at the local pub.
The following day we headed further south to the town of Gore. It is the country music capital of NZ and also claims to be the world capital of brown trout fishing. There is not much else to be said about Gore really! We then headed across to the south west corner of NZ and Fiordland National Park. Another nice bike ride into camp in the Hollyford Valley. In Fiordland, it is either raining or you are being attacked by sand flies (or sometimes both). Joking aside, the scenery is stunning - dense beech forests and snow capped mountains. Amazing drive to Milford Sound the next day. Milford Sound is probably one of the most photographed areas of NZ - the one you see in all the books and ads. The boat cruise is a bit of a "must do" whilst you are here although the rain and mist meant that the views and photos we got weren't as spectacular as the pictures in books and on postcards. The sun did come out towards the end though in time for our Routeburn hike.
The Routeburn trek (or "tramp" as they call trekking / hiking in NZ) is one of the most famous three day tramps in NZ. Eight of us on the Flying Kiwi tour decided to undertake the challenge. The track is closed throughout winter due to snow but should theoretically be open in spring. However, we were told before we set off that part of it was still impassable but it may be possible to take a helicopter flight over that section. As you can imagine, I was hugely excited about the prospect of hiking and helicopters particularly as I've never been in one before. Unfortunately, conditions meant the helicopter wasn't guaranteed either. We would trek to the first hut on day one then find out from the warden on day two if we could continue. We were very fortunate to have beautiful weather in the afternoon that we set off on the trek affording us amazing views of the mountains. Sun was shining and we were trekking in t-shirts (and carrying huge packs with enough food to last us about a week, not to mention cold and wet weather gear). As it turned out, we were not able to complete the trek. Two more avalanches that day meant the second section of the trek was not passable so we wouldn't even be able to reach the helicopter point. Still we had an entertaining evening in the hut playing cards and eating freeze dried packet meals - chicken a la king and mashed potato. For anyone who hasn't done multi day hiking or been in the armed forces, then you probably haven't had the pleasure of eating freeze dried meals. Basically it is a complete meal in a packet comprising of a dried powder that you add boiling water to, stir and then leave to "develop" for ten minutes. You will then have a tasty dinner to eat!! Suffice to say, they are pretty bad..
So we retraced our steps this morning and got a bus back to Te Anau to join the rest of the group. Next stop tomorrow is Queenstown.
We continued down the east coast of South Island. My first cycle ride was a nice easy one along the coast into our camp where we had a campfire and fireworks on the beach as it was the 5th Nov. The next day, we stopped off at the Mouraki Boulders, then onto the city of Dunedin which is apparently the furthest city in the world from London. Did a great downhill bike ride (i.e. minimal effort on my part) into Dunedin and then climbed up the world's steepest street. That night, we camped at Kaka Point (in the rain naturally) and had a bbq at the local pub.
The following day we headed further south to the town of Gore. It is the country music capital of NZ and also claims to be the world capital of brown trout fishing. There is not much else to be said about Gore really! We then headed across to the south west corner of NZ and Fiordland National Park. Another nice bike ride into camp in the Hollyford Valley. In Fiordland, it is either raining or you are being attacked by sand flies (or sometimes both). Joking aside, the scenery is stunning - dense beech forests and snow capped mountains. Amazing drive to Milford Sound the next day. Milford Sound is probably one of the most photographed areas of NZ - the one you see in all the books and ads. The boat cruise is a bit of a "must do" whilst you are here although the rain and mist meant that the views and photos we got weren't as spectacular as the pictures in books and on postcards. The sun did come out towards the end though in time for our Routeburn hike.
The Routeburn trek (or "tramp" as they call trekking / hiking in NZ) is one of the most famous three day tramps in NZ. Eight of us on the Flying Kiwi tour decided to undertake the challenge. The track is closed throughout winter due to snow but should theoretically be open in spring. However, we were told before we set off that part of it was still impassable but it may be possible to take a helicopter flight over that section. As you can imagine, I was hugely excited about the prospect of hiking and helicopters particularly as I've never been in one before. Unfortunately, conditions meant the helicopter wasn't guaranteed either. We would trek to the first hut on day one then find out from the warden on day two if we could continue. We were very fortunate to have beautiful weather in the afternoon that we set off on the trek affording us amazing views of the mountains. Sun was shining and we were trekking in t-shirts (and carrying huge packs with enough food to last us about a week, not to mention cold and wet weather gear). As it turned out, we were not able to complete the trek. Two more avalanches that day meant the second section of the trek was not passable so we wouldn't even be able to reach the helicopter point. Still we had an entertaining evening in the hut playing cards and eating freeze dried packet meals - chicken a la king and mashed potato. For anyone who hasn't done multi day hiking or been in the armed forces, then you probably haven't had the pleasure of eating freeze dried meals. Basically it is a complete meal in a packet comprising of a dried powder that you add boiling water to, stir and then leave to "develop" for ten minutes. You will then have a tasty dinner to eat!! Suffice to say, they are pretty bad..
So we retraced our steps this morning and got a bus back to Te Anau to join the rest of the group. Next stop tomorrow is Queenstown.
Friday 4 November 2011
Spring time on South Island.. and it's snowing?!
Yes, it really has been snowing. What a shock to my system after six months of largely dry, hot weather!
Actually, when I landed in Christchurch to start the Flying Kiwi tour, it was reasonably sunny. I met up with the bus and the group near the airport. Four of us joined that day, but it is a hop on / hop off type of tour so some people had joined up beforehand. At the moment, we are 20 people - mainly English, and also some Americans and Germans. Ages range from 16 to 60ish, but most people are 20s and 30s and mostly people travelling by themselves. Lots of really nice people. The bus has a trailer attached for the bikes, tents, food and cooking stuff.
The first afternoon was a drive to a camp site near the Rongitata River. The countryside is beautiful (so good to be out of the city) - lots of lush green grass, rolling hills and spring lambs playing. I haven't seen so much green since leaving the UK that's for sure!
First night's camping was okay. Nice and cosy in my sleeping bag, but the wind got stronger and stronger during the night. The noise of your tent flapping in the wind is not entirely conducive to a good nights sleep! However, despite the weather, our white water rafting trip was still set to go ahead that morning. As we drive up the mountain to the put in point, it starts to snow. And I do mean proper settling snow! Who would go rafting in the snow on a glacial river? Well they do in NZ so away we went. It was a battle to maintain circulation in one's feet and hands but the adrenalin of going through the rapids does help. The guide did stress that given the conditions, the aim was definitely to stay in the raft and not flip over. Sadly, it didn't quite work out that way.. On the final grade 5 rapid (the highest grade), it went horribly wrong for our raft as we flipped pretty much as soon as we entered it. Not good when the rapid is around 350m in length, the white water is raging and it is absolutely freezing. Ah well, we lived to tell the tale so it was okay in the end. I don't think my body temperature has ever dropped that low before - very painful trying to regain feeling in my hands which were like blocks of ice.
The plan to bush camp that night near Mount Cook was abandoned given the dreadful weather conditions. More driving snow as we stopped off for a photo stop by Lake Tekapo so we stayed at a proper lodge with nice warm cabins to sleep in. Although some brave souls in the group did still opt for tents - crazy people..
Today we were planning to do a 3 hour hike by Mount Cook but again that wasn't possible - the route was closed due to snow. We found a shorter hike to do instead. So strange tramping through ice and snow and wearing all my cold weather gear - I knew I'd been carrying it around with me for the past six months for a reason. Although it's cold, the weather is better today so hoping to do a cycle ride later into camp on the beach. The scenery so far has been simply stunning. Incredible snow capped mountains, blue / green glacial lakes, etc. Loving NZ!
Actually, when I landed in Christchurch to start the Flying Kiwi tour, it was reasonably sunny. I met up with the bus and the group near the airport. Four of us joined that day, but it is a hop on / hop off type of tour so some people had joined up beforehand. At the moment, we are 20 people - mainly English, and also some Americans and Germans. Ages range from 16 to 60ish, but most people are 20s and 30s and mostly people travelling by themselves. Lots of really nice people. The bus has a trailer attached for the bikes, tents, food and cooking stuff.
The first afternoon was a drive to a camp site near the Rongitata River. The countryside is beautiful (so good to be out of the city) - lots of lush green grass, rolling hills and spring lambs playing. I haven't seen so much green since leaving the UK that's for sure!
First night's camping was okay. Nice and cosy in my sleeping bag, but the wind got stronger and stronger during the night. The noise of your tent flapping in the wind is not entirely conducive to a good nights sleep! However, despite the weather, our white water rafting trip was still set to go ahead that morning. As we drive up the mountain to the put in point, it starts to snow. And I do mean proper settling snow! Who would go rafting in the snow on a glacial river? Well they do in NZ so away we went. It was a battle to maintain circulation in one's feet and hands but the adrenalin of going through the rapids does help. The guide did stress that given the conditions, the aim was definitely to stay in the raft and not flip over. Sadly, it didn't quite work out that way.. On the final grade 5 rapid (the highest grade), it went horribly wrong for our raft as we flipped pretty much as soon as we entered it. Not good when the rapid is around 350m in length, the white water is raging and it is absolutely freezing. Ah well, we lived to tell the tale so it was okay in the end. I don't think my body temperature has ever dropped that low before - very painful trying to regain feeling in my hands which were like blocks of ice.
The plan to bush camp that night near Mount Cook was abandoned given the dreadful weather conditions. More driving snow as we stopped off for a photo stop by Lake Tekapo so we stayed at a proper lodge with nice warm cabins to sleep in. Although some brave souls in the group did still opt for tents - crazy people..
Today we were planning to do a 3 hour hike by Mount Cook but again that wasn't possible - the route was closed due to snow. We found a shorter hike to do instead. So strange tramping through ice and snow and wearing all my cold weather gear - I knew I'd been carrying it around with me for the past six months for a reason. Although it's cold, the weather is better today so hoping to do a cycle ride later into camp on the beach. The scenery so far has been simply stunning. Incredible snow capped mountains, blue / green glacial lakes, etc. Loving NZ!
Wednesday 2 November 2011
Arrived in New Zealand
So at last here I am in New Zealand. I did think at one point that I might not actually make it. When I tried to check in for my flight from Sydney to Auckland, they refused to let me because I didn't have a flight out of NZ booked. Mad panic to buy a ticket before check in closed. I am assured that the ticket I bought back to Sydney is fully refundable. I was particularly irked that I had to buy it from Qantas who already owe me money for the cancelled Brisbane flight! I suppose every cloud has a silver lining and mine was that because this made me late checking in, there were no seats left in economy and they had to upgrade me to business class. Never before has this happened to me, although I know lots of people who it seems to happen to all the time. May be the trick is to check in late, but this seems a risky strategy just for the sake of an upgrade. I have to say that apart from the reclining seat and extra leg room, it wasn't really that exciting. It would be good on a long flight but I was only on the plane three hours so it didn't make much difference.
Well, when I landed in Auckland (late at night to wind and rain), I was at least one of the first off the plane - that is the plus side of travelling business class. Did they ask to see my flight ticket out of NZ at immigration?? No. Did they automatically issue me with a six month visa? Yes. Very annoying!!
For the past two nights, I have been staying in possibly one of the most depressing backpacker hostels I have ever stayed in. There is something about large city centre backpackers that I really dislike. May be it is the 500 beds, the windowless rooms, the disinterested staff and the general filth? I will definitely never stay in a "Base Backpackers" again. I stayed in one in Sydney on my last night and it was equally as depressing. The female only "sanctuary" rooms look most appealing on their website. In reality, they are anything but and the towels are most definitely not fluffy as they claim! Small, independent (not chain) backpackers is the way forwards. Or may be I should just treat myself to a hotel room when I am back in Auckland at the end of the month. At least I am now genuinely looking forward to camping again - fresh air, a view, and not being disturbed by fellow room mates.
Auckland seems a bit grey right now. The weather is not great which doesn't help. I did go up the Sky Tower yesterday which was quite good. It is 220m high which is only slightly higher than the bungee jump I did in South Africa. Looking down from the tower yesterday, I really have no idea how I ever did that! You can also do a sky jump from the tower although I didn't take that option. Very expensive and I am saving myself for sky diving..
For the next month, I will be on an organised tour of NZ via the Flying Kiwi bus. The original plan was to start this in Auckland today, but they've asked me to start in Christchurch instead - presumably due to numbers. Anyway, they are paying for return flights to Christchurch and have refunded the cost of my bike hire as an added incentive so that is all good. Hopefully, lots of walking and cycling this month so I will be super fit by the end of it! I fly to Christchurch later on this morning and meet up with the group. I'm told the weather on South Island is very wet right now so camping could be fun?!
Well, when I landed in Auckland (late at night to wind and rain), I was at least one of the first off the plane - that is the plus side of travelling business class. Did they ask to see my flight ticket out of NZ at immigration?? No. Did they automatically issue me with a six month visa? Yes. Very annoying!!
For the past two nights, I have been staying in possibly one of the most depressing backpacker hostels I have ever stayed in. There is something about large city centre backpackers that I really dislike. May be it is the 500 beds, the windowless rooms, the disinterested staff and the general filth? I will definitely never stay in a "Base Backpackers" again. I stayed in one in Sydney on my last night and it was equally as depressing. The female only "sanctuary" rooms look most appealing on their website. In reality, they are anything but and the towels are most definitely not fluffy as they claim! Small, independent (not chain) backpackers is the way forwards. Or may be I should just treat myself to a hotel room when I am back in Auckland at the end of the month. At least I am now genuinely looking forward to camping again - fresh air, a view, and not being disturbed by fellow room mates.
Auckland seems a bit grey right now. The weather is not great which doesn't help. I did go up the Sky Tower yesterday which was quite good. It is 220m high which is only slightly higher than the bungee jump I did in South Africa. Looking down from the tower yesterday, I really have no idea how I ever did that! You can also do a sky jump from the tower although I didn't take that option. Very expensive and I am saving myself for sky diving..
For the next month, I will be on an organised tour of NZ via the Flying Kiwi bus. The original plan was to start this in Auckland today, but they've asked me to start in Christchurch instead - presumably due to numbers. Anyway, they are paying for return flights to Christchurch and have refunded the cost of my bike hire as an added incentive so that is all good. Hopefully, lots of walking and cycling this month so I will be super fit by the end of it! I fly to Christchurch later on this morning and meet up with the group. I'm told the weather on South Island is very wet right now so camping could be fun?!
Tuesday 1 November 2011
New South Wales & Queensland photos
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| Sydney Harbour Bridge & The Opera House |
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| Bondi Beach, Sydney |
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| The Three Sisters in The Blue Mountains, NSW |
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| Katoomba Falls, The Blue Mountains |
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| Hervey Bay, Queensland |
Western Australia photos
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| Kangaroo and her joey in Yanchep National Park |
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| Koala in Yanchep National Park |
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| Coral Bay |
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| Dolphins at Monkey Mia |
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| Me on Rottnest Island |
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