Pushkar

Well, we didn’t see a tiger. Unfortunately, as a result of the tiger attack on a park worker the previous day (the third one in 2012), much of the park was closed to visitors thus lessening our chances of seeing one still further. Despite that, our stay in Ranthambhore was really quite pleasant. A nice hotel with amazing food such as potato and tomato curry with vegetable rice and chipatis served on the rooftop restaurant whilst we watched camels, pigs and cows wandering along the road below. Just watching the world go by in India is always fascinating, particularly from the serenity of a roof top.

Onwards to Pushkar which meant a two hour train journey back to Jaipur, once again in cattle class travelling with the locals. The train we got was the Mumbai to Jaipur express and consequently, boarding it towards the end of its journey, meant it was absolutely packed. There was literally not a single spare space – people on the floors and hanging out of the doors. They don’t give any thought to health and safety in India that’s for sure! On arrival in Jaipur, a massive cheer went up from the passengers and then there was the most chaotic surge to disembark. I’m not sure exactly how long it takes from Mumbai to Jaipur but it must be around 24 hours so those who had been sitting cramped up on the floor were more than a little relieved to escape. The guy who had been sitting on my rucksack for the journey insisted on carrying it off the train for me. The sad fact of travelling in India is that you really can’t trust anyone because so many people are just trying to rip you off. So although he was just being nice, I was also desperately concerned not to let him or my bag out of sight during the crush to get to the platform.

Fortunately, the next leg of our journey – another two hour train ride from Jaipur to Ajmer – was a little more civilised as the train wasn’t nearly so full. The one bonus of travelling in second class is that it is ridiculously cheap - about 70 pence for the two hour journey. Once in Ajmer, the plan was to get the bus to Pushkar but we settled for a taxi for the 30 minute drive when Di got off the train and promptly vomited in the gutter. Strangely enough, she didn’t fancy a bus ride whilst feeling sick.

Pushkar is a very holy place that devout Hindus are expected to make a pilgrimage to at least once in a lifetime. It is also famed for the camel fair that takes place each year which is the largest tribal gathering of its kind in the world. 50,000 camels are bought to Pushkar for the fair! The town surrounds a lake and there are 400 temples and several bathing ghats where pilgrims can bathe in the sacred waters. The main street is essentially a tourist bazaar with a myriad of jewellery and clothing on sale. We’ve certainly seen more tourists here, but as the centre of town is closed off to cars and autorickshaws, it doesn’t seem as hectic and busy as other places we’ve been. If only they also banned mopeds from the streets, it could almost be relaxing to stroll around! The town has a very hippie vibe and it would be easy to while away several days here, just relaxing and enjoying the sounds of drums, music, chanting and prayers at sunset and sunrise.

Yesterday morning, I made the hour long trek up to the hill top temple of Saraswati which affords fantastic views over the town and lake of Pushkar. Also visited the Brahma Temple which is one of only a few in the world.

At Saraswati Temple with the town and lake of Pushkar down in the valley below



Indian trains